2) Typical Torques & Specs

3) Front Brake Master Cylinder + Lever

3.1 Prep

1. Center the bars on a stand. Ignition OFF.
2. Cover painted parts with plastic + towels.
3. Unplug the brake-light switch connector if reusing it.

3.2 Remove Old Assembly

1. Slip a hose on the caliper bleeder; open ¼ turn; gently pump lever to drain most fluid. Close bleeder.
2. Crack the banjo bolt at the master; cap/plug the line to minimize drips.
3. Remove lever pivot hardware and lever if needed.
4. Loosen bar-clamp bolts and slide the master off the bar. Remove mirrors/switchgear only if they obstruct removal.

3.3 Install New Master & Lever

1. Slide the new master on the bar; keep the reservoir roughly level. Lightly snug the clamp bolts.
2. Fit the brake line using new copper crush washers—one on each side of the banjo fitting. Thread banjo by hand, then torque to spec.
3. Lightly grease the lever pivot. Install lever, insert pivot bolt, add nut, and torque.
4. Adjust lever reach (if applicable) and reconnect or align the brake-light switch.

3.4 Fill & Bleed

1. Fill reservoir with the specified DOT fluid (as indicated on reservoir cap). Do not mix types.
2. Bench-prime: with cap loosely on, slowly pull/release the lever 10–20 times to push air up.
3. Caliper bleed (single disc): squeeze & hold lever → open bleeder ~¼ turn → fluid/air exits → close → release lever. Repeat. Keep reservoir topped up.
4. Dual discs: bleed the caliper farthest from the master first, then the nearer one.
5. Top off to “MAX,” seat diaphragm correctly, and close cap.

3.5 Final Alignment & Checks

• Set master angle so your wrist is neutral when covering the lever; torque clamp bolts evenly.
• Verify brake-light operation.
• Hold firm lever pressure for 30–60 s: lever must remain firm; check for weeping at banjo/bleeder.
• Slow test ride; re-inspect for leaks afterwards.

4) Clutch Lever (Cable)

4.1 Remove Old Lever

1. Wind perch barrel adjuster all the way in to create slack and align the slots (perch ↔ adjuster ↔ cable).
2. Slip the cable out of the lever and remove the pivot bolt/nut to release the lever.

4.2 Install New Lever

1. Lightly grease the pivot bore and the cable nipple pocket.
2. Hook the cable nipple into the new lever, seat the cable in the adjuster, then rotate adjuster so slots are no longer aligned.
3. Install lever into perch; insert pivot bolt, add nut, and torque to 6–8 Nm.
4. Verify clutch-switch (interlock) actuation if present.

4.3 Adjust Free Play

1. Set 2–3 mm of free play measured at the lever tip.
2. If perch range is insufficient, set coarse slack at the mid-cable or engine-side adjuster, then fine-tune at the perch.
3. Turn bars full-lock L/R: ensure no RPM rise or cable tension.

5) Clutch Master (Hydraulic Variant)

For hydraulic clutches, procedure mirrors the brake side:

1. Install clutch master on bar; keep reservoir level; lightly snug clamp bolts.
2. Connect the line with new crush washers and torque banjo to spec.
3. Fill with the specified fluid for your model (DOT or mineral oil—check the cap/manual).
4. Bleed from the slave cylinder until lever firms and bubbles cease; keep reservoir topped up.
5. Set lever reach and verify clutch-switch operation.

6) Final Safety Checklist

• No leaks at banjo bolts or bleeders.
• Lever travel smooth; no binding or scraping.
• Brake light and clutch safety switch operate correctly.
• Bars at full lock L/R: no hose/cable tension; throttle returns normally.
• All fasteners torqued; mirrors and switchgear secured.

7) Quick Troubleshooting

• Spongy brake lever: More air in the system—re-bleed; tap lines; ensure caliper bleed order (far → near on dual discs).
• Brake light stuck ON/OFF: Adjust or reseat the switch plunger/tab; verify connector.
• Weeping at banjo: Replace crush washers; check surface cleanliness; torque correctly.
• Clutch drags or slips (cable): Re-set free play; check routing and tight spots at full lock.
• Hydraulic clutch inconsistent: Entrained air—bleed again; watch for slave trapped bubbles.

8) Helpful Link

REM 2.0 Switch Control installation (for reference on control layout and bar ergonomics):
remmotorcycle.co/pages/rem-2-0-switch-control-installation